Replacing or installing shingles might sound like a job only the pros can handle—but with the right guidance and preparation, it’s a project many homeowners can do themselves. Not only can this save you thousands of dollars, but there’s something incredibly satisfying about fixing or building part of your own house.
Whether you’re dealing with a leaky roof, replacing old worn-out shingles, or simply ready to tackle a long-awaited home improvement project, this guide will walk you through how to shingle a roof from start to finish—safely, smartly, and confidently.
Let’s break it down step-by-step, using plain language and real-world tips that even beginners can understand.
Why Learn to Shingle a Roof?
Shingling your own roof can save you serious money. Professional roofing services often charge between $4 to $7 per square foot (or more depending on your location and the material used), and that adds up fast.
But beyond savings, there’s a bigger benefit: confidence. Knowing how your roof works and how to maintain or repair it gives you peace of mind. It’s not just about hammering down shingles—it’s about protecting your home, your family, and your investment.
Roofing is not a casual weekend project. It requires proper safety gear, awareness of building codes, and a healthy respect for heights. If you’re not comfortable on a ladder or sloped surface, it’s best to leave it to professionals.
Types of Asphalt Shingles: Choosing the Right One
Before diving into installation, it helps to understand your options. Asphalt shingles are the most popular roofing material in North America for a reason: they’re affordable, durable, and come in a variety of styles.
1. 3-Tab Shingles
- Flat and uniform
- Least expensive option
- Lifespan: 15–20 years
2. Architectural Shingles
- Thicker, layered appearance
- Better wind and weather resistance
- Lifespan: 25–30+ years
3. Luxury Shingles
- Mimic wood shake or slate look
- Heaviest and most expensive
- Premium durability and aesthetics
For most DIYers, architectural shingles hit the sweet spot between price, appearance, and ease of installation.
Tools and Materials You’ll Need
Tools:
- Roofing nail gun or hammer
- Utility knife
- Chalk line
- Ladder or scaffolding
- Pry bar or shingle remover
- Safety harness and roof anchors
- Measuring tape
- Magnetic nail sweeper
- Caulk gun (for roofing cement)
Materials:
- Asphalt shingles
- Roofing nails (galvanized)
- Starter strip shingles
- Roofing felt or synthetic underlayment
- Ice and water shield
- Drip edge flashing
- Ridge cap shingles
- Roofing sealant
Preparing to Shingle: Safety and Planning
Before lifting a single tool, prioritize safety. Roofing accidents are among the most common home improvement injuries—and many are preventable with the right precautions.
Safety Checklist:
- Wear a roofing harness with fall arrest equipment.
- Work in dry weather with calm winds.
- Use roof jacks or toe boards on steep roofs.
- Keep your tools secure and organized.
- Don’t work alone—have someone nearby in case of emergency.
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Shingle a Roof
Step 1: Tear Off the Old Shingles
Unless your roof is brand-new or you’re doing a small patch, you’ll need to remove the old shingles first.
- Use a shingle remover or roofing shovel to strip away old shingles, nails, and underlayment.
- Collect debris in a tarp for easier disposal.
- Inspect the roof decking for rot or water damage—replace any compromised sections.
Tip: Removing old shingles is dusty, sweaty work. Pace yourself and stay hydrated!
Step 2: Install the Drip Edge
Drip edge is metal flashing that goes along the eaves and rakes. It prevents water from seeping into the wood underneath your shingles.
- Install drip edge along the eaves first using roofing nails every 8–10 inches.
- Then add drip edge along the rakes (sides) of the roof after the underlayment is installed.
Step 3: Lay the Ice and Water Shield
This self-adhesive barrier protects vulnerable areas from ice dams and wind-driven rain.
- Roll out along the eaves and valleys.
- Overlap each row by 3–4 inches.
- Press firmly to stick it to the deck.
Step 4: Roll Out the Underlayment
Synthetic underlayment is lighter and more durable than traditional felt paper. It provides a secondary moisture barrier.
- Start at the bottom edge and work upward.
- Overlap rows by at least 4 inches.
- Fasten with nails or cap staples every 12–18 inches.
Step 5: Snap Chalk Lines
Snap horizontal chalk lines every 5 inches to keep shingle rows straight.
- Measure up from the eaves.
- Snap lines every few rows to stay aligned.
- Use vertical lines to stagger shingle seams consistently.
Step 6: Install Starter Strip Shingles
Starter strips go beneath the first row of shingles to ensure water doesn’t seep in between joints.
- Lay the starter strip with adhesive facing up.
- Overhang the drip edge by about ¼ to ½ inch.
- Nail them down securely before starting your first full row.
Step 7: Install Field Shingles
This is where the roofing begins to take shape.
- Begin with a full shingle at one end.
- Nail just below the adhesive strip, usually using 4–6 nails per shingle.
- Each row should cover the nails of the row below.
- Stagger seams by cutting 6 inches off the first shingle of every second row (known as a “stair-step” pattern).
Keep working up the roof, row by row, following your chalk lines for alignment.
Step 8: Trim and Fit Around Roof Features
Carefully cut shingles to fit around chimneys, skylights, roof vents, or plumbing stacks.
- Use flashing around each obstacle to seal and prevent leaks.
- Leave small gaps for thermal expansion.
- Seal edges with roofing cement if needed.
Step 9: Install Ridge Cap Shingles
Ridge caps finish the peak of the roof and protect it from rain and wind.
- Use special ridge cap shingles or cut your own from 3-tab shingles.
- Overlap each shingle 5–6 inches.
- Nail on both sides of the ridge, sealing the final one with roofing cement.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Skipping underlayment: This reduces waterproofing and shortens roof lifespan.
- Not using starter strips: Without them, water can penetrate the first row.
- Overdriving nails: Can damage shingles or cause them to loosen in high winds.
- Poor alignment: Crooked rows can affect drainage and curb appeal.
- Ignoring attic ventilation: Poor airflow can cause heat buildup and shorten shingle life.
How Long Will It Take?
For a one-story home, DIYers can typically expect to spend:
- 1–2 days tearing off the old roof (if needed)
- 2–3 days installing shingles, depending on weather, complexity, and experience
Bigger or more complex roofs will naturally take longer.
Cost of Shingling a Roof
If you hire a contractor, expect to pay around $4 to $7 per square foot for asphalt shingles, including labor. Doing it yourself? Materials alone cost about $1 to $2 per square foot. For a 2,000-square-foot roof, that’s a potential saving of $6,000 or more.
However, factor in tool rentals, disposal fees, and your time. If mistakes are made, repairs can be expensive—sometimes even more than the original job.
Signs It’s Time to Reroof
- Curling or cracked shingles
- Missing shingles
- Granules in gutters
- Leaks in the attic after rain
- Moss or algae growth
- A roof that’s 20+ years old
When to Call a Pro Instead
There’s no shame in calling in a roofer, especially if:
- Your roof is steep (pitch above 6:12)
- You see signs of structural damage
- You’re uncomfortable with heights
- You’re unsure about local building codes
Professionals have the gear and experience to do the job quickly and safely—and they often offer warranties.
Maintenance Tips After Installation
A new roof doesn’t mean zero work forever. Here’s how to keep it in great shape:
- Inspect annually, especially after storms
- Clear gutters to prevent overflow and ice dams
- Trim overhanging branches to avoid damage from falling limbs
- Check attic ventilation for proper airflow and insulation
- Replace missing or curled shingles immediately to prevent leaks
FAQs About Shingling a Roof
Q: Can I walk on the roof after it’s shingled?
A: Yes, but try to avoid it. Excessive foot traffic can damage shingles, especially in hot weather.
Q: Do I need a permit?
A: In many areas, yes. Roofing permits ensure that your work meets local building codes. Check with your city or municipality before starting.
Q: How long will my roof last?
A: A well-installed asphalt roof can last 20–30 years. Proper ventilation and maintenance are key.
Q: Can I re-roof over existing shingles?
A: Technically, yes (if code allows), but most pros recommend a full tear-off for the best results and longer lifespan.
Q: What’s the best time of year to install shingles?
A: Spring and fall are ideal. Shingles adhere best in moderate temperatures—between 50°F and 85°F.
Q: How long does it take to shingle a roof?
A: For a single-story house, it may take 2–3 days for experienced DIYers. Factors like weather, roof size, and slope can change the timeline.
Q: What type of shingles should I use?
A: Asphalt shingles are the most popular and affordable. Architectural shingles last longer and look better but cost more. Choose based on your budget and climate.
Q: How do I know how many shingles I need?
A: Roofing materials are measured in “squares” (100 sq. ft.). A 2,000 sq. ft. roof needs roughly 20 squares. Always buy 10–15% extra for waste and cuts.
Final Thoughts: Should You DIY Your Roof?
Shingling your own roof isn’t just about saving money—it’s about learning a vital homeowner skill. If you’ve got the patience, tools, and time, it can be an empowering and rewarding project.
That said, if your roof is very steep, two or more stories high, or you’re unsure about your ability to work safely at heights, don’t risk it. A professional roofer brings experience, speed, and safety to the table.
But if you’re ready to take it on, now you know how to shingle a roof the right way—step by step, layer by layer.
Call JDM Roofing by calling on (613) 882-7663 now.